Asparagus, before the peas

For about five weeks a year the asparagus at the Antibes market is better than anything I can do to it, so I do very little. Butter, salt, a spoon of roe. The rest of the menu waits for the peas, which arrive late every year and are worth the wait every year.

The lamb starts in my kitchen at ten and finishes in your oven from 17:00, when I arrive, which means your kitchen smells of it by the time the first guest rings. If you don’t have a casserole big enough for a shoulder, I bring mine.

Two of the five courses are vegetarian already. Tell me in the form and the other three follow.